Question For Those Who Have Lowered

offshore

offshore

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I've noticed that I have very little clearance for the cement parking stops in parking lots and when pulling into parking spots that have a sidewalk in front. I have a '99 Boxster with stock suspension and am wondering how you folks who have altered your suspension so the car is lower handle the clearance issues. What's the max without slamming the front of the car into something?
 
I thought I was the only one facing thbis issue! Glad to hear that others also face the same thing. I would love to hear any advices about this.
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you learn to judge your distances...
If you lower the car, the cement parking stops will definitely stop you:eek:
on the leading edge of your bumper.
my '99 was lowered the entire time I owned it (5 years) and it just wasn't a problem:eek:.
you know you will hit if you aren't careful so you pull into parking spaces and enter and exit driveways carefully and stop short of the curbs and parking stops.:eek:

actually, navigating driveways with large inclines are tougher than the parking stops...enter and exit driveways at an angle, not perpendicular:D
my current Porsche is even lower than my boxster with H&R springs was...
 

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Parking curbs

Most of my recent cars including an 2006 911 had low ground clearance with the threat of running into curbs. I am proud to say I never ran into a curb with the front bumper of my 911. I did cheat as often as I could by using the car I'm parking next to as a mirror to guide me to a safe distance away from the curb. Just a thought...
 
Scraping

My front bumper has been repainted twice!

offshore said:
I've noticed that I have very little clearance for the cement parking stops in parking lots and when pulling into parking spots that have a sidewalk in front. I have a '99 Boxster with stock suspension and am wondering how you folks who have altered your suspension so the car is lower handle the clearance issues. What's the max without slamming the front of the car into something?
Click to expand...
 
The nose of my Boxster is longer than I am used to. So I am always driving in further than I think I am. Seems like nearly every time the nose is over the concrete stop blocks, and if the car was any lower it would scrape (stock height).

Also the nose of the boxster has a pretty long overhang in front of the front wheels, so even at stock height, I sometimes scrape on driveways.

So I'm not too keen on lowering my car - even though I'd like to do the ROW M030 suspension.
 
Demick said:
The nose of my Boxster is longer than I am used to. So I am always driving in further than I think I am. Seems like nearly every time the nose is over the concrete stop blocks, and if the car was any lower it would scrape (stock height).

Also the nose of the boxster has a pretty long overhang in front of the front wheels, so even at stock height, I sometimes scrape on driveways.

So I'm not too keen on lowering my car - even though I'd like to do the ROW M030 suspension.
Click to expand...
Interesting because the ROW MO30 suspension is the reason I asked this question as I've been considering it as well. I've recently gotten hooked on AXing and will be attending the two day driving event at Infineon in October and have thought about beefing up my suspension. My mechanic, who also races his Porsche, is recommending H&R springs and adjustable sway bars over the ROW MO30 kit because the sway bars in it are not adjustable. I'm really not interested, at 62, in jacking up my car before every event and crawling under it to adjust sway bars I prefer something in between but better handling than stock. But I digress as I am curious how those who have lowered are handling it.
 
Go with the ROW M030. Just remember to pull up short every time you park.
My BMW is stock and I have the same problem. I have just learned to keep a safe distance from curbs and parking stops.
 
IIRC the ROW M030 only lowers the car something like 12-15mm from stock...so we are talking 1/2". Nothing huge...but lower...
better handling too.
My '99 Boxster with stock struts, H&R springs also had Boxster S ROW front and rear sway bars...
for an occasional weekend AX and otherwise a street car, all the adjustability is overrated. Most folks find a setting they like and never touch it again, unless they start getting very serious about AX or Track events.
M030 ROW is a very good compromise setup...;)
 
to add my 2 cents:

I have lowered with Eibach springs, which took the front down by around 1" (probably rather 1.5) and the rear a little more (so bad that I had to re-adjust the headlights as they were illuminating the moon)

My biggest issue are not the concrete parking bumpers, but most driveways (it breaks my heart to look at the front under body) so I started to approach EVERY driveway diagonally

But standing next to a "standard" Boxster "Rally Car" - priceless :D
 
Take my ROW, please

I have been living with the ROW M030 for several years and honestly wouldn't mind going back to the original S suspension. The original basic suspension, while not as firm as the current setup, was a magic compromise. (I did a little jaunt with H&R coil overs which I hated, but that's another story). I think I have my original suspension in boxes and hope someday to restore the car thusly. I think it's like a grand for labor alone?


ChrisZang said:
to add my 2 cents:

I have lowered with Eibach springs, which took the front down by around 1" (probably rather 1.5) and the rear a little more (so bad that I had to re-adjust the headlights as they were illuminating the moon)

My biggest issue are not the concrete parking bumpers, but most driveways (it breaks my heart to look at the front under body) so I started to approach EVERY driveway diagonally

But standing next to a "standard" Boxster "Rally Car" - priceless :D
Click to expand...
 
it is not that tough of a job to do yourself....time and some tools...nothing fancy.:D
 
Parking with lowered Boxster

I bought my box already lowered plus it has side skirts. I learned real quick that the fron appears to be a bit lower and after a few scrapes I started backing in or being real careful. However I did catch a concrete stop going around it with a skirt which ending up costing me a fiberglass repair job.

While I really like the look lowered you do have to be real careful in lots.

Burt
 
No Can Do

Docdanracy said:
it is not that tough of a job to do yourself....time and some tools...nothing fancy.:D
Click to expand...
Although I appreciate you DIY guys, and I was one when I had tools and a garage, I can't even wash my car where I live so any DIY is not an option. I've sort of come to the conclusion of H&R springs to control body roll and new Bilstein shocks to replace mine with 70K miles. The ROW MO30 outfit is tempting though.
 
You don't need to replace the struts, simply because they have 70K miles.
My shocks are M030 from the factory and have 189K miles on them.
Unless they've leaked, you don't need to change them.
I did replace my springs, because they tend to sag a bit after 100K miles.
The springs won't do much to control body roll (that's the sway bar's responsibility).
If you're having body roll issues, you need beefier swaybars.
The springs are for rebounding and will also control the ride height.
If you install the M030 you get shocks, springs and swaybars.
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro
 
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